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World-Class Golf in the Irish Dunes

Northern Ireland boasts two of the greatest championship courses in the world, but there is depth in the dunes and life in its villages
World-Class Golf in the Irish Dunes

Northern Ireland is blessed with two of the greatest golf courses on the planet which make a pilgrimage from anywhere worth it. Royal Portrush and Royal County Down are two of the best 10 (or whatever number you’d like to arbitrarily toss out) golf courses in the world and can serve as pillars for any trip. If you’re making the journey, you’d like to finagle your way onto both courses. This is doable, with the right advance planning. Or great fortune or great connection, if you’re not planned out months (or years) ahead of time. 

But neither is mandatory for each and every traveler. You can still come away satisfied with all the other good golf and Irish experiences that fill your days. No trip will hit every course or must-see culture spot, and it’s always important to center on the stuff you are doing rather than being consumed by anxiety or regret about what you might be missing. I am terrible at focusing on this in the moment of a trip, but I rarely ever leave a trip feeling unfulfilled.

So if you’re planned out with the two great Northern Ireland golf pillars set in your itinerary, great! If not, well, there’s plenty to see, do, and consume as we will outline in this guide so you leave your trip fulfilled. 

Within Reach

An international trip can feel too big to plan. I went to Northern Ireland twice in about 15 months and the first, and perhaps most impactful, impression upon our Fried Egg group was just how doable the travel is, especially for East Coasters in the United States. The red eye is almost too short a trip over to Dublin, and flights are typically reasonable from the eastern U.S. The idea of going to Northern Ireland, the thought of planning and traveling, can feel bigger and more daunting than the actual trip. It might often be easier to get to than many rural American resorts for those stateside.

If you’re flying into Dublin, and you probably are, I’d recommend allotting some portion of the trip to taking in that city on the front or back end. That’s for another guide. But once you land, you can be in Newcastle, home of Royal County Down Golf Club, in under two hours. We spent some time in Dublin before and after our trips north, and the general impression made by locals is that we were traveling north to a backwoods Siberian wilderness forgotten in time. But you drive right across the open border, similar to crossing state lines in America, and believe it or not, there are gas stations, golf courses, nice hotels, and good places to eat. 

That easy pass across the border was obviously not always the case. Maybe it is my Irish ancestry, but I’ve been surprised at how unaware of The Troubles some of my American travel partners were before our trips. My background knowledge, having taken college courses on it and hearing about it throughout my life, stuck front and center in my head, probably too much, ahead of traveling to Northern Ireland. There are the very matter-of-fact details – currency, license plates, etc – that you enter a new country.  There are certainly signs, flags, and markers of this deadly and divisive past. There’s still an undercurrent of tension if you’re looking hard enough. But there is zero apprehension or concern about safety. It is recent history, but history, and it feels like a normal trip abroad to Europe with elite golf on the docket.

This guide is based on multiple trips to Northern Ireland, but it is not delusional or narcissistic enough to know it all. We have not spent years in these areas comprehensively combing them, but we sought and collected insights from those who have, and then went and experienced them ourselves. Northern Ireland is also a whole-ass country covering many miles and communities. We spent only a passing night or two in Belfast, its largest city, focusing mostly on the coastal golf communities. This does not cover the entire country, clearly, but the good of what we do know. Let’s dive in on what we know, love, and enjoy.

Newcastle 

Newcastle serves as a home base for a Royal County Down experience. Less than two hours from the Dublin airport, it’s far from a metropolis but a nice, humming coastal town with one main road and plenty of options for eating, drinking, and activity. We set up shop at a great Airbnb that fronted the beach walkway and looked out over Dundrum Bay with the sun blasting through the large windows each morning. It was less than a 10-minute walk to Royal County Down and a one-minute drive. Perusing Airbnb is a good option if you want to stay in town and aren’t into the hotel scene (more on that to come). 

Causeway Coast

Northern Ireland’s “Causeway Coast” has come into greater international view and prominence thanks to the return of the Open Championship to Royal Portrush in 2019 and 2025. This stretch is comprised of many towns dotting the north coast with Portrush, Portstewart, and Portballintrae as some of the anchor towns. Bushmills, which is just inland, is also a popular town where many stayed during the Open. Some fancier, richer Irish folks may fly to Portugal or elsewhere to vacation, but many come this way and to adjacent Donegal in the Republic. We have been blessed with great weather on multiple visits, but it is not misleading or outlandish to suggest you could spend a full week or much more just up on the north coast with family and friends playing great golf and filling your days with much more than golf. It's a beautiful part of the world, setting aside the golf courses.

In this guide, I'll first take you through Newcastle and the Coastal Causeway and wrap up with a few of our favorite stops in Belfast and Derry.

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Railway Street Cafe & Brew Bar (Newcastle)

This is maybe our highest non-golf recommendation for Newcastle. It’s across the street from the Slieve Donard, which is where many will stay and abuts Royal County Down. The owner is a golf nut committed to his shop. Great coffee, brunch, and food through the afternoon, and a wonderful easy-going vibe if you need to work or hang with your group to decompress. There’s also a to-go window if you’re hustling to play golf.

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Brunel’s Restaurant (Newcastle)

A bit on the fancier side, but a great option for dinner after a full day of golf. We had good steaks and seafood here. It’s quite close to Royal County Down as well and on that side of town.

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Piccolo Kitchen (Newcastle)

We had pizza here our first night in town, late and desperate for sustenance. It turned out to be great and hit just right. We had many locals suggest Villa Vinci as a must-do for pizza while in town. We also did that one at a later date. Both were solid, but we liked Piccolo better – maybe it was our first-night desperation.

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Quinn’s (Newcastle)

We had pints here a couple nights because it was a pitching wedge from our Airbnb. We did not eat here. A good place for a beer with a classic pub look, but pick the right time. It was moderately crowded but comfortable when we were there, but we were told on multiple occasions this is where all the youths get after it – some of age, some underage. So if you’re some middle-aged guy traveling through town, maybe not your scene if it’s late.

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The Tap Room (Newcastle)

We landed here after a big rugby match and it was a rowdy mix of youths dancing to live music and a big party of older folks at the back pub. We had a few pints here but no food. It’s a cool space with big windows on an intersection on Main Street.

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Marghera Inn (Newcastle)

We did not make it here, but it came recommended multiple times as a classic Irish pub for drink and food. It is not walkable from the main area of Newcastle and Royal County Down.

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The Wolf Bar at Slieve Donard (Newcastle)

The Slieve Donard is the fancy, mainstream spot at the end of town where most tourists who have come to play the reputed No. 1 golf course in the world will stay. We had a fine lunch – salad and sandwiches – at the Wolf Bar in some high-backed leather chairs, warming up before a walk out the back door into the sideways rain for a round.

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Slieve Donard

This is your primary (and almost only?) hotel option in Newcastle while in town for golf. It’s part of the Marine and Lawn collection, which is an American-financed group gobbling up hotels near primo golf courses. The building is still in its authentic spot, but it’s obviously nice and updated inside given the money behind it and its convenient location adjacent to Royal County Down. We did not stay here, but we did walk around the lobbies and restaurants on our way through to the course and had lunch in the Wolf Bar on a second trip.

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The Harbour Bar (Portrush)

A must-visit if you are in Portrush. I like the places and activities that make me feel most present in that moment and place. The Harbour Bar accomplished that. There was nothing but the conversation and Guinness in front of me. It’s probably a bit of a tourist spot, but not because it’s made great efforts to become one. And it’s not some charmless chain. On this trip, it was a classic must-see spot, but also one that provided a few moments of stress-free clarity, wherein work and the next task were set aside in favor of present company and place.

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Harbour Bar Bistro (Portrush)

The restaurant attached to the famed Harbour Bar. We landed here multiple times in a short stay in town. It’s a solid, elevated food option that’s better than basic pub food. The space is separate from the bar so there’s ample seating for a full-blown, legit restaurant. And when you’re done, you can top off at the more charming bar that gets all the fame and glory.

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Amici Ristorante (Portstewart)

I would not suggest the northern coast of Ireland is the best place in the world to get Italian, but this is the best meal we had all week at the Open. It came highly recommended from all locals and delivered. I would suggest if you are trying to book one great meal, go here and get it done. The menu has some variety and the location, isolated and right on top of the cliffs on the outskirts of Portstewart between Portrush, is supreme.

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Urban (Portrush)

We had a nice dinner here in Portrush one night after being run ragged all day. A strong menu with options, shading probably to the fancier side but not stuffy at all. Highly recommended.

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Lost + Found Coffee Shop (Portstewart)

Another that might fall into the “must-stop” category. This coffee shop was a hit with all four Fried Egg staffers on our first visit. The best coffee we had in the country, at an incredible setting looking out to the sea. And some excellent, healthy food options for mid-morning or midday. The setting, the food, the drinks, and the people all provided a much-needed boost for our days on multiple visits. I would love to spend a full morning at that coffee shop looking out over the beaches and ocean.

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Harry’s Shack (Portstewart)

A fish place that is right on the beach in Portstewart, just down the hill from the golf club. Locals who have lived there forever also recommended it, so it is not just a tourist trap. You park on the sand for a quality lunch or dinner.

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Ramore Wine Bar (Portrush)

The Ramore Group seems to own much of the dining options in Portrush, which could be good or bad depending on your POV. They try to vary it up with different cuisines from pizza to pub fare to seafood across different restaurants, but there is a bit of sameness that hits each time. Maybe the familiarity is a good thing – it caters well to the golf crowd. We hit the Wine Bar during Open week and it was a fine meal in a scene location with the ability to walk all around town right after we were done.

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Causeway Coast Rentals

The north coast area has many options for hotels. We stayed at a great Airbnb right on the port and then rented through Causeway Coast Vacation Rentals for the Open for a place right on the West Strand Beach, walkable to Royal Portrush and into town. But there are several hotels, like the Portrush Atlantic, the very fancy Dunluce Lodge, which is new and on the golf course, but a hike to get into town for anything. Or the fancy Portrush Adelphi, again from the folks at Marine and Lawn. Finding a rental in Portrush or Portstewart, to me, is a great way to settle in for a solid price.

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Royal County Down Golf Club

The idea of a “best course” is a fallacy to me. Great golf courses are works of art. The “best” to me is not necessarily the best to someone else. It’s subjective and ever changing. That being said, on a given day, Royal County Down might be my answer to the question I get almost every time I meet someone who likes golf: “What is the best course you have played?” -Andy Johnson

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Ardglass Golf Club

What makes Ardglass Golf Club special is the raw beauty of the landscape you traverse. The figure-eight-fish-hook-shaped routing covers nearly two miles of jagged rocky cliffs, providing an extraordinary setting for golf. Ardglass is a different type of links golf in the sense that it isn’t the same sandy dunescapes we see at Royal Portrush and Royal County Down. Where it lacks in sand, it makes up for in breathtaking views atop the dramatic and rugged land. The course itself is rooted in old-world design characteristics with simple greens and minimal bunkering because the real test is the battle of the elements and terrain. Ardglass is a place you must experience firsthand to fully comprehend its uniqueness and charm. -Matt Rouches

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Annesley Links at Royal County Down Golf Club

Sitting in the shadow of arguably the greatest golf course in the world, the Annesley Links—or “wee course”—at Royal County Down is a perfect complement to the stern test of the Championship course. The two links are intertwined within the same majestic dunesland, providing tremendous views of the Irish Sea and towering Mourne Mountains. Although short in scorecard yardage, the wee course provides a unique test of accuracy and precision. Annesley asks players different questions than its neighboring big brother, making for a round you must not miss when visiting Royal County Down. -Matt Rouches 

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Royal Portrush (Dunluce)

The Dunluce Links stands out among most Irish and Scottish links courses for its elaborate green designs and enormous dunes. Many old links courses are found rather than built, with flat sections among dunes selected for green sites. This is why many links courses have relatively simple greens. Portrush, however, was constructed late in the Golden Age of golf architecture. Harry Colt had advanced skills in green building, and he implemented more dynamic and intricate green designs. The site itself has both towering dunes and wonderful medium-sized contours, perfectly scaled for golf. Despite its coastal location, many of Portrush’s ocean views are blocked by a prominent dune ridge that separates the course from the beach. The combination of exquisite greens, incredibly dramatic landforms, and a quality routing makes Royal Portrush’s Dunluce Links one of the very best golf courses in the entire world. -Matt Rouches 

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Portstewart Golf Club (Strand Course)

Five miles west of Royal Portrush you’ll find the Strand Course at Portstewart Golf Club, a Northern Irish links whose reputation can’t stand up to its neighbor but one whose dunes may actually overshadow those that oversee its prestigious counterpart…Today, the front nine of the Strand Course is arguably one of the best, and most dramatic, opening nines in the world. Combined with a more benign back nine that plays down to the River Bann on the southern end of the property, the Strand Course at Porstewart Golf Club is a more modern example of the beauty that is on display in Northern Ireland. -Will Knights

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Castlerock Golf Club (Mussenden Course)

When discussing golf in Northern Ireland, a few courses will invariably be mentioned. Royal County Down and Portrush are the championship beacons. Portstewart’s front nine is one of the great stretches in all of golf. Ardglass, a charming club located between County Down and Belfast on a rugged stretch of cliff, has also become a popular destination in recent years. If not for these, the Mussenden Course at Castlerock Golf Club would probably be held in higher regard. Given its proximity to both Portstewart and Portrush, a design pedigree that includes contributions from Harry Colt, and some stretches of really great golf, Castlerock is worth the journey. -Cameron Hurdus

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Castlerock Golf Club (Bann Course)

If you have a half day or a couple spare hours, and are looking for more golf, the short course at Castlerock, called the Bann Course, is well worth the time. It’s situated in some of the most dramatic dunesland on the property with an incredible environment and views for a quick spin on the north side of the property. Fried Egg’s Cameron Hurdus and Andy Johnson were staggered by some of the holes, with Cameron writing, “although the Bann Course is one of the most difficult nine-holes in the world, it’s a blast and shouldn’t be skipped.”

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Royal Portrush (Valley Course)

“It’s something that we missed because of the renovation of the front nine, but after walking around the back nine I wouldn’t miss the Valley Course at Royal Portrush. I just hope the new front nine being done by Martin Ebert fits the character of the fascinating green sites and subtle features of the back nine on the Valley Course.” -Andy Johnson

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Bushfoot Golf Club (Portballintrae)

A charming nine-holer on the River Bush with multiple ways to play each for an 18-hole par-70 routing. If you have a half-day or want to get in an emergency nine after dinner, this is a fun option. It came recommended by the trusted Geoff Shackelford, friend of the program and an authority on golf courses, for these purposes – a fun, late-in-the-day jaunt, which he did after working at the Open.

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Holywood Golf Club

We visited the home of Rory McIlroy, which was an excellent half-day spent outside of Belfast. It’s still an active golf club, of course, but also a monument to one of the most famous golfers in the world and sixth ever to complete the career slam. The parkland course itself is a wild layout almost entirely on the side of one big sloping hill. But the clubhouse, if you can call ahead and arrange a visit, is nice to stroll through for the memorabilia.

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About the author

Brendan Porath

Brendan Porath has spent more than a decade in digital golf media in multiple roles as a manager, writer, editor, podcaster, and contributor to television programs. He built and expanded Vox Media's golf coverage into one of the most popular destinations on the Internet at SB Nation. He's also written for the New York Times and contributed to Golf Channel programming, most often for the live studio show, Morning Drive. He founded the Shotgun Start podcast with Andy Johnson, and joined The Fried Egg full time as an editor, writer, and manager overseeing content.

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