Derry Debriefs, Volume III

Welcome back to the third and final Derry Debrief, a mini-series on my recent trip to Derry, Northern Ireland, and the golf I played in the area. For our final entry, we’re heading about as far north and west as you can to play golf in Northern Ireland: Portsalon Golf Club

Vol. III

As a matter of principle, I do very little research before I head out on a golf trip. Whether it is Bandon Dunes or a local muni, I like to be surprised by the golf I get to experience. All I knew about Portsalon was that it was allegedly the most scenic of any of the courses I’d play on the trip. But having experienced two incredible days of golf so far, I found that hard to believe.

The opening stretch at Portsalon is some of my favorite golf holes I’ve ever played. Like Nos. 1 and 18 at the Old Course, the first and final fairways at Portsalon join up to create a massive field of golf. The fairway contours are immense and rolling as they work their way up a hill that hides the first green, only affording you a peek at the flag in between two peaks of fairway. With the right light, it’s a magical scene and creates an opener filled with quirk and randomness, two things I love in a golf course. Moving off the first green, you turn left and crest a ridge onto the second tee. It is here where you see why people would tell you Portsalon is as scenic as they come. The second hole plays over and alongside Ballymastocker Beach and includes a tee shot that asks you to bite off as much as you can chew. Like many shots at Ballyliffin, this shot gives you a mountain backdrop and all the intimidation you can handle.

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After two holes at Portsalon, I was hooked. Many American seaside routings tend to save the best views for the end of the round. There is something about the Scottish and Irish way of routing courses, a strategy that often starts with the most stunning vistas and seaside holes that really gets the juices flowing. Portsalon did exactly that and didn’t slow down. Its opening seven holes include many diagonal drives over dunes and fairway contours, greens that repel, and a long par 3 in No. 5 that more than keeps your attention. From there, the course heads inland and tackles some tumultuous land before arriving in a meadow-like arena on No. 10.

The final six holes, which reside on the high side of the Portsalon property but as far away from the water as you can be, may be the surprise of the trip. This stretch goes up and over the most severe sections of the land multiple times, including two drives on Nos. 14 and 16 that provide the opportunity to get a drive bounding downhill if the wind blows the right way. This stretch plays in the same direction towards town, bringing the modest clubhouse and the vacation homes that surround it closer and closer. The final hole crosses through the open field of golf once again, bringing you home after a memorable day.

Portsalon struck me in a way I wasn’t prepared for. It was the course that was mentioned the least on the internet in my brief searches, and yet I couldn’t help but feel that if it were an hour closer to Dublin it would be included in every Northern Irish golf trip. Getting out to the course is a bit of a journey, but it’s the extra effort that makes the experience that much more enjoyable. Hell, that was the theme of the entire trip.

Our Derry adventure came to a close in town at Walled City Brewery, a restaurant with a very appropriate name given my brief learnings of the town and its history. With a Michelin-starred chef in the kitchen and a deep bench of terrific brews, it was the perfect place to end a first experience in the region. Derry may not be the most convenient place to travel to, but for those looking for a trip that includes both tremendous golf and deep cultural experiences, it is worth visiting.

‍This piece originally appeared in the Fried Egg Golf newsletter. Subscribe for free and receive golf news and insight every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday.