In the late 20th century, American golfers discovered the British Isles weren’t that far away. Links golf in all shapes and sizes, jaw-dropping views, and unique cultural experiences only required a red-eye flight and a travel bag. Many knew the Old Course at St. Andrews and the country of Scotland at large, but exploring other areas was something strictly for the true sickos.
As more Americans began to make the journey across the Atlantic Ocean, clubs in Southwest Ireland jumped on the opportunity to bring in some visitors. Huge dunes made for natural marketing materials, and the crowds began to seek them out. The region’s popularity rose to the point that many clubs were afforded the luxury of renovating their courses and grounds with the additional revenue while keeping dues extremely affordable for their local and international members. The Southwest Ireland playbook was soon copied by other regions in Europe.
While Southwest Ireland is far busier now than it was 40 years ago, that doesn’t make it any less special. Its scenery is unmatched, its culture as intoxicating (and intoxicated) as ever, and its golf trips remain a bucket-list opportunity.
Where to fly: Assuming your trip is largely golf-focused, Shannon International Airport is far and away the most convenient airport when traveling to Southwest Ireland. It offers daily flights to the United States hubs and is easily accessible from other large European airports.
Tack on a city: If you want to add a little additional culture while in Ireland, Cork and Galway are well within reach. Cork is on the south end of Ireland while Galway is on the west coast, both offering tremendous local shops, pubs, and restaurants.
Getting around: While it is certainly possible to drive yourself around this region of the world, albeit on the right side of the road, we would highly recommend a driver and shuttle company. The roads to many of these golf courses are tight and winding and it removes any question about having that post-round Guinness.
Pitch and putts: If you need to kill time, the Doolin Pitch and Putt course is just minutes from the Cliffs of Moher and only 20 minutes from Lahinch. A full 18 holes, the course features jaw-dropping vistas and some of the smallest greens you’ll ever see. Speaking from experience, it makes for a fun off-the-plane match-play experience. Additionally, the Scandfield House Pitch and Putt is directly adjacent to Lahinch Golf Club and offers a sporty seaside experience. The tiny greens are perched among some miniature dunes compared to Lahinch across the beach.
Takeaway: Yes, many of the courses will give you a pint to go if you ask for it. Just grab a plastic cup and hop in the shuttle.
For this guide, we’ll start in Lahinch before venturing to Killarney and Galway.
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The more touristy area of Galway with pubs aplenty and the Galway Girl statue.
The area with more locals and true Irish pubs. Just cross over the River Corrib and you’ll find a ton of other bars and restaurants.
Easily the best meal in this guide, Ard Bia serves what I would call modern farm to table dishes. Fresh ingredients and inventive dishes make this a must stop option if you go to Galway.
One of the main attractions on Quay Street. This bar has everything you’re looking for in an Irish pub.
A lively spot in the West End of Galway with more upscale cocktail options than your typical pub.
A classic West End Irish pub with live music on the second floor every night. The downstairs gets busy but just take your pint outside if it’s warm enough.
Pastry shop with coffee, usually open earlier than most other breakfast options in the city, especially on the weekends.
A charming spot in a charming city. That's the TL;DR on Coffeewerk + Press. Grab a cup of coffee and take a stroll along the River Corrib, which is the fastest flowing river in Europe.
Typical Irish restaurant with all the staples. Most importantly, they are open until 10 p.m. and the kitchen takes orders until about 9:30 p.m. Great spot for those looking for a late bite after an afternoon round.
A great Irish restaurant off the beaten path, but not far away from the center of town. If the restaurants on High Street are all busy and you need a spot, head down the side alley to Stonechat.
Simple, small, and charming. Good Boy operates on a charming alley in a small space but the coffee is delicious.
Seafood restaurant with a range of offerings from Fish and Chips to Seafood Chowder to fresh catch. Their wine list is also very affordable. They do not serve Guinness.
A must-stop in Killarney. Whether you want live music or to watch the English Premier League or just get lost in the sea of rooms, this is one of the best bars we’ve ever seen.
We stumbled upon Pig's Lane while waiting for a dinner reservation and it might have been my favorite bar of the trip. Located underground, it feels like your drinking in an abandon set of tunnels. It's a basement bar that really opens up into a big space. Great spot that doesn’t get nearly the foot traffic as others on the main streets.
Highly recommended by all the locals with a wide selection of fresh fish and seafood.
Whether or not this guide included Hugo's you couldn't possibly have missed it. Take a walk and you'll smell the delicious aroma of fresh bread and cinnamon floating through the air, turning your nose into a magnet that leads you straight into the bakery.
A simple but proper cup of coffee is what you'll get if you meander down to Coffee Hatch, a literal side-door hatch with artisan coffee and a small selection of pastries. Located right by the water for those looking to grab a cup of joe and walk along the beach, and maybe watch the surfers catch some waves.
Danny Mac's is a very welcoming crowd-pleaser. You'll work off quite an appetite batting your ball around Lahinch. Go to Danny Mac's afterwards and refill the tank with their fish and chips, lamb shank, or lasagne (note: this is not the lasgna that Americans have come to know but it is delicious and filling nonetheless). Don’t skip the seafood chowder.
No need to overly sell this one. Kenny's is the local spot and a great place to grab a pint.
I must've heard at least 20 times that a bar has the best pour of Guinness in Ireland. I'm sure someone somewhere will tell you this about The Nineteenth. Go for the Guinness, stay for the lively after-hours vibes.
A little outside of town, Egan’s is a historic pub that was recommended to us by Lahinch members. It has both indoor and outdoor seating.
It’s open late for when you’ve played 36 at Lahinch and need to find dinner quick!
We’re only interested in fighting with you about P Frawley’s having the best pint of Guinness in Ireland.
Located on the south end of Killarney’s main drag, the Plaza is in the heart of everything. A few steps outside your hotel you’ll find dozens of great pubs and restaurants with live music and dancing at every turn.
On the east side of the bustling town of Killarney, the Great Southern is the full package. Nice rooms, great food and beverage options, walkable to town, and there is a bar open late with a great selection.
Upscale charm at its finest. The Avenue is close to all of the action in Killarney but offers a respite as well. Everything from a comfortable bar with pub food to a high-end restaurant can be found within its doors.
A staple in the hotel scene of Lahinch, the Coast Hotel is very close to all of Lahinch’s nightlife and, as the name suggests, the coast.
Just up the hill from downtown Lahinch, the Vaughn Lodge is everything you need and nothing you don’t. The rooms are comfortable, the bar has the basics, and the restaurant makes terrific food. It doesn’t look like much from the outside, but you’ll enjoy your stay here.
One of the most beautiful natural wonders that Ireland has to offer is in the southwest. It costs just a few bucks to enter and that money is donated to the upkeep of the area. It’s well worth your time, just know that you’ll likely be battling some tourist groups.
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Lahinch Golf Club for many visitors is a sort of religious experience — captivating raw dune golf, the surfing-centric village (almost contiguous with the course), and the goats tottering around the property. Like many great links courses, there is a level of acceptance that must be exercised at Lahinch. The first nine is fraught with blindness — remnants of Old Tom Morris’ original work — while the course’s finish lacks the punch of the earlier holes. Embracing these traits instead of fighting them allows the course to reveal itself, and what’s left is a collection of some of the most thrilling shots in the sport on one of the most naturally gifted sites in the world. Lahinch’s quirks are what make it unique, and its connection to the town is really only rivaled by St. Andrews. As a pure golf experience, Lahinch is as good as it gets.
With a population of fewer than 2,000 people, the small coastal village of Ballybunion is one of Ireland’s many quaint hamlets. And yet, millions of golfers around the world know of its treasure. Ballybunion Golf Club traces its roots to the late 1800s, but it didn’t begin in earnest until 1906. Ballybunion was always a great golf course, but few outside of Ireland knew how special it really was. That changed in the 1970s when famous golf writer Herbert Warren Wind pronounced Ballybunion as “nothing less than the finest seaside course I have ever seen,” sending a surge of visitors to the area. Today, Ballybunion serves as an iconic venue in Southwest Ireland that attracts golfers from around the world. The scale of Ballybunion’s dunes and oceanside location wows in every way, but perhaps Tom Simpson said it best: “The beauty of the terrain surpasses that of any golf course we know, not excepting Pine Valley in America.”
The sign on the first tee at Dooks Golf Club reads “Bona Fide Golfers Only. No Sharing of Clubs.” In a world where the phrase “hidden gem” is all but impossible to say with a straight face, Dooks is as close as we can get. Thirty minutes west of Killarney and flush against an inlet of the Atlantic Ocean, Dooks is more of a quaint Irish club than you find on most Southwest Ireland itineraries. Still, if you talk to anyone who played it on their journey to this area of the world, you’ll often find they rave about the experience.
Written on many bucket lists, Waterville Golf Links quickly rose in popularity amongst American travelers over the last 40 years, but the club dates back much further than that. Set out on one of the southwesternmost points of Ireland, Waterville resides on a peninsula that juts out into the Atlantic Ocean. During high tide, the course is surrounded by water on three sides, making the 18th hole your only way out. An old club, this course has survived a long and winding history with periods of turmoil. But today, Waterville is a bustling venue with golfers visiting from across the world.
Said Arnold Palmer of Tralee Golf Club: “I may have designed the first nine, but surely God designed the back nine.” While Tralee traces its origins back to the 1800s, the course we know today was designed by Palmer and opened in 1984, making it one of Southwest Ireland’s most modern destinations. The layout, especially the back nine, sits amongst some of the largest dunes you’ll find on a golf course. Surrounded by Barrow Beach and Barrow Harbour, Tralee sits out on a finger of land jutting into the Atlantic Ocean. Its setting is undeniably one of the most scenic in the world.
